Off The Runway With CJ Cray

The Montreal-based fashion designer talks about her love for leather and its importance in queer communities around the world.

by Cam Delisle

Specializing in fetishwear, accessories, and made-to-order leather garments, CJ Cray is a fashion designer who runs her own fashion label of the same name. Graduating from Toronto Metropolitan University in 2021, Cray established the brand in 2023. Amid her university studies, she developed a fondness for leather, and would further go on to fabricate her graduate collection in the medium. 

Forged with burlesque performers, sensualists, and dominatrices in mind, CJ Cray began as an endeavour focused on further expanding the accessibility of the fashion and lingerie industry, with signature design elements including corsetry, grommets, harnesses, and a multitude of hardware components. Empowering individuals who wear her garments is at the forefront of the brand, offering custom-made variations of their pieces available in personalized sizing.

Where are you right now and what did you get up to today?

At home doing some bookkeeping. I just got back from the gym, and then I’ll go to my studio and work on some commissions.

When did you know you wanted to be a fashion designer?

When I was seven-years-old I started drawing and designing clothes so I told my mom that I wanted to learn how to sew. She signed me up for classes with this lady named Ramona. Ramona changed my life. Both her and my mom were so supportive of my creative endeavours. I was making matching outfits for me and my dolls, reversible skirts/tops and dresses for my graduations, halloween costumes, everything. I once made a whole photo album with printed photos of myself in each outfit. Not much has changed I guess!How would you describe the style/nature of your designs to people unfamiliar with your work?

Unconventional, sexy, confidence boosting, provocative.

How does living in Montreal impact your designs/design process? 

I love this city. The community I have found here has really helped me push my designs. I love my clients, doing custom orders, seeing my ideas come to life, and when my clients receive them with such love and gratitude. I love what I do and all that it has brought to my life, I really owe it to moving to Montreal. It’s such a creative and inspiring city with so many collaborative and uplifting artists.

Who are some current fashion icons or houses that inspire you? 

Julia Fox. I loved her book, it was so inspiring and I love her fashion sense more than any celebrity. She’s unique and different and bold.

How would you describe the sensory experience of wearing your pieces? What emotions/sensations do you hope your garments evoke?

I’ve been told by my clients that wearing my pieces boosts their confidence. The feeling of leather is different than wearing regular fabrics, and I personally love both the smell and feel of leather garments. Not just that, but the confidence wearing it brings me. It feels empowering.How do you envision the evolution of fetishwear in the next decade, and what do you hope your brand will contribute to it?

I see it becoming more and more mainstream, and therefore more accepted. I think things that used to be way more taboo are becoming more talked about which is great for people who enjoy self-expression through fashion and fetishwear.

Your use of leather and different elements of hardware suggests a structural approach to design. How do architectural elements influence your garment construction?

Another thing I love about leather is how firm and structured it can be. It takes a lot of technical skill to work with and there have been huge learning curves in my journey with leatherworking. I recently started using more structure, such as ‘boning’ in my corsets to give it even more strength and structure. I love thinking that my pieces will last forever due to the quality materials and technical skills that they are made with.

In what ways do you see your designs further exploring the narrative around self-expression, particularly within the queer and fetish communities?

Leather has a huge LGBTQ+ history, which has been amazing to learn and research about as I have entered the world of leather and made it my full time job. I love learning about the history, collecting vintage leather and fetish books and magazines. Not only do they provide me with context, but they are also a major inspiration for new designs. Some say in the fashion world that everything has been done before and it’s just a revolving door, but I truly believe innovation and new twists are always there within the world of fashion, fetishwear, and self expression.

Can you share a moment or story that significantly impacted your journey as a designer and influenced the direction of your brand?

I owe a lot of what I do to teachers, professors, and my mom. They all believed in me going into fashion, studying it, and working and thriving in this creative field. I think it’s so important for artists of any kind to not only believe in themselves very strongly, but also to surround yourself with people who just as strongly believe in you and uplift you. I don’t think I would have the successful business I have without these.

What’s next for CJ Cray? Anything else you would like us to know about you? 

More events, pop ups, crazy custom outfits, and fashion shows. It’s a beautiful, fun, and creative world!

CJ Cray joins forces with laye for a moody runway showcase on Saturday, Nov. 23rd at Bar Le Ritz in Montreal, QC | TICKETS